The Definitive 2nd Gen Acura TL AV6 Transmission Swap Guide

This blog entry is just going to be a collection of resources to help people doing a transmission swap on their 2nd generation (2000-2003) Acura TL.  Some of this will apply to the '99 model as well, but since it uses a 4 speed transmission you cannot swap in any of the newer 5 speed transmissions including the '06-07 Accord which is recommended.

NOTE: I had the wrong address for car-part.com listed before, I left out the dash. My apologies. This has been corrected.

Also, if you need an immediate answer please visit the Acurazine forum listed below! I don't get to comments very quickly.


What's wrong with my transmission?

Honda V6 transmissions in the early 2000's were plagued with issues.  Many 2nd gen TL owners had several replaced under warranty.  Honda extended the transmission warranty to 7 years/109,000 miles in response to the flood of issues, but that has long since passed so if your transmission dies now you're on the hook.

The main issues were abnormal clutch wear leading to slipping clutches (usually 3rd gear) and dirty transmission fluid, which will eventually clog the internal filter, solenoid screens, and other areas of the transmission and lead to loss of pressure.  The transmission will start slipping while shifting, take a long time to shift into gear, and eventually refuse to engage any gear.

If you think you have a transmission issue, visit the 2nd gen Acurazine forums at http://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98 for some help diagnosing your issue.  Sometimes issues can be fixed with a fluid change or replacing solenoids/filters/etc.  Most likely though if you've reached the point where your transmission refuses to shift, it's gone.

What do I do?

If your transmission has gone out and you need a replacement, there are several options from most expensive to least expensive:

1. Go to the dealer and have them put in a new transmission.  They will horrendously overcharge you, and will put in a reman unit that will most likely fail again.
    
2. Find a reputable transmission shop to put in a new transmission.  If they rebuild your transmission, it will most likely fail again.  If they use a reman unit you will have varying degrees of success but it will most likely fail again.
    
3. Find a reputable transmission shop that will perform the AV6 swap (see below).  Many shops will refuse since they might not be willing to go through the swap instructions.  If they will do it, generally the Acurazine swap DIY (below) is sufficient.
    
4. DIY - If you have the tools and expertise, this is the cheapest route.  You should follow the factory shop manual instructions, but I will show below in general what is involved, so you know what to expect and decide whether you can handle the job or not.

What is the AV6 swap?

The AV6 swap involves swapping in a transmission from an Accord V6.  This transmission has the exact same gear ratios as the TL Type-S and is virtually a direct bolt on replacement, with some parts that need to be swapped.

In general, Honda 3-shaft 5 speed transmissions are interchangeable.  Since Honda made some changes that greatly improved the reliability after 2005, what most people are doing is replacing their 2nd gen TL transmission with a unit sourced from a 2006 or 2007 Honda Accord V6 (non-hybrid).  Check car-part.com to search for used transmissions from local junk yards.  You can expect to pay between $700-$1000 depending on location and mileage on the transmission.

If you decide to swap in a transmission from another model such as an Odyssey or 3rd gen TL, please visit the Acurazine forums and make sure the year/model you are looking at is compatible.

OK I'm ready! What do I need?

• A replacement transmission (car-part.com has quite a few listed, or you can try contacting local salvage yards).  It must be from a 2006-2007 Honda Accord V6 non-hybrid, you cannot use the transmission from the 4 cylinder or the hybrid.  I got one through LKQ, and would definitely recommend them.
    
• A new torque converter is recommended. If the replacement transmission has higher miles this will reduce your chances of having any issues in the future.  Putting in a new torque converter now will be incredibly easier than later.  Personally, I did not do this but my salvage tranny had under 50K miles on it.
  
  Note: There have been some people with 2005 AV6 models reporting that the torque converter will not bolt up to the TL flex plate.  An AV6 from a 2005 Accord V6 will work for this swap, however you will need to buy a new torque converter for an '06/'07 Accord V6 transmission, you cannot re-use the existing one.
• You will be using your existing fluid warmer on top of the transmission! The new one on the AV6 has hose connectors facing the wrong way.  If you follow the shop manual instructions exactly, you will leave the fluid warmer in place in the engine bay and reattach to the AV6 on installation.
   
• Instructions for swapping over the wiring harness, range sensor, and filter body from your old transmission to the new one (note: while not specified in these instructions, swap over every bracket you find that is different, as most of them are used for wiring harness clips and such - even the dipstick tube & dipstick).
  
  The instructions were originally posted here, along with discussion on the swap: http://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/faq-06-07-av6-transmission-swap-905115/
  
  There are issues with the pictures showing up so I have hosted a PDF of the original instructions here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-g2DV4992tDSE5nMDRseEl5cFk/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-lWkgbDr5o0exEj08YDu3Qg
   
• Shop instructions for transmission removal/replacement.  If you don't have one (and you *really* should have one), you can download a PDF of the shop manual here: http://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/2g-factory-tl-shop-repair-manual-852101/.   If none of the download links work, please post to the thread. Also, you can try this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-g2DV4992tDWU9PQnhRVUZtNnM/view?usp=sharing
  
  Refer to pages 847 - 861 in the PDF (manual pages 14-351 through 14-365).  I would recommend printing out this page range, and checking off steps as you complete them.  This way you should not miss anything.
  
  In addition to the instructions in the manual, I would additionally remove each axle (it adds negligible time and makes things much easier), and remove the driver's side wheel well cover to make sliding the transmission out easier.
   
• If you are swapping over the old fluid filter as the swap instructions indicate (so you will continue to use the same spin-on type filter), you will want to get these items (I got the gasket/o-rings from hondapartsunlimited.com):
  - Passage body gasket (25812-P7W-A01)
  - Passage body o-ring (91302-P7W-A00)
  - ATF warmer o-rings x 2 (19435-P8E-A01)
  - New ATF filter (ATP Filter)
   
• If you have the transmission out, it is worth checking if your rear main seal is leaking.  You will need to remove the flex plate.  The seal is part # 91214-P8A-A01.  If it is not leaking, leave it be.  If it is leaking and you decide to replace it, please seek out another DIY for that.
   
• Tools! I would recommend having:
  - Full socket set, with deep sockets also.
  - U-joints and extensions.
  - I highly recommend flex head ratchets and long wrenches.
  - Two floor jacks, with a transmission cradle for one.
  *or* one floor jack plus a hoist for the transmission.
  - Jack stands.
  - Breaker bar.
  - Needle nose or other pliers for getting at wiring harness clips, hose clamps, etc.
  - Ball joint separator (OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator).
  - Engine hanger (I used the Astro 5820).

What all is involved in replacing the transmission?

In a nutshell, you will have to:

• Support the engine with an engine hanger
• Remove everything attached to the transmission
• Remove both axles
• Remove the front subframe
• Unbolt the transmission and lower it out from under the car
• Put it all back

Here are some pics of the process.  This is meant to show what is involved in replacing a transmission, not as a how-to.  I highly recommend following the factory service manual while doing the job.

Getting started.  I don't have a huge garage but this was plenty.

Everything attached to the transmission or in the way of getting to
it must come out.  Battery, intake, every wiring harness connector and clip,
fluid warmer, etc.

You'll need a breaker bar or impact wrench for the axle nuts.  I recommend
a ball joint separator for the lower ball joints, but a hammer will work as well
if you know what you're doing.

Both axles should be removed to make things easy.

This is the intermediate shaft and bearing.  You'll need u-joints
and possibly a flex head ratchet to get the last bolt out.

The flex plate is unbolted from the torque converter through this
access hole.  It helps to have someone turning the crank for you
while you remove each bolt.

Engine hanger in place.

Front subframe unbolts and drops out.  This is a good time to replace
the front engine mount if needed.

With the subframe out of the way, the transmission is supported
with a jack and all of the bolts connecting the case to
the engine are removed.

Then the transmission is lowered and wheeled out the
wheel well.  I removed the brake caliper for extra room, and ended
up removing the wheel well before installation as well.  I had the car jacked up
as high as the jack would go, and it was a tight squeeze, but doable.

New AV6 transmission with all required parts swapped over.

One of the hardest parts - getting the new transmission back into place
so the pins all line up and slide into place.  From then on you're pretty
home free.

The rest is just bolting everything back up and reconnecting the wiring.

Good luck! If everything goes well, you may be able to finish this in a weekend.  It is a big job, so don't rush but don't be intimidated.  If you get stuck because you don't have a tool that will accomplish what you need to do, stop and think about a different way to do it but don't hesitate to go buy a new tool.  You will waste way more time hacking away at something with the wrong tool than buying the right tool, as well as risking breaking something.

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